Bateyes

I wanted to share with you guys another aspect of my trip in DR so far: exposure to the Haitian bateyes

Though preliminary research has partly informed my understanding of these areas, most of what I know about bateyes have come from speaking, laughing, eating and holding space with Haitians that live here. Bateyes were the subpar living dwellings for Haitian migrants who cut sugar cane in the Dominican Republic, many of whom were brought to the Dominican Republic by U.S. forces that were simultaneously occupying Haiti (1915-1934) and the Dominican Republic (1916-1924). Many Haitians living in Haiti would look down on the Haitian migrants that moved here as they were well aware of this work’s slave-like conditions. Life in the bateyes meant meager food rations, no legal rights or opportunities for education, very little pay and long & brutal work days. Even though the work was physically, mentally and emotionally arduous, it was plentiful. Haitians looking for work opportunities knew that whatever little they made by cutting sugar cane could be used to support themselves and their families back in Haiti. A combination of their lack of citizenship rights, poor economic standing and racial minoritization meant that these migrants were easily taken advantage of. Though the Dominican Republic no longer heavily relies on sugar cane as a major source for its economy, the bateyes continue to be known as “the ghettos” of the country and are predominantly inhabited by low income and undocumented Haitian immigrants.

However, and I may be slightly biased here, Haitians are some of the most resilient people I have ever encountered. Despite its historical and contemporary standing, bateyes are a source of both joy and community for the people who live here. Everyone seems to be connected knowing exactly who needs support and how to offer it to them. Even being here for 6 weeks, I can’t walk outside without being greeted by warm smiles, hugs and inquiries as to how I’m doing. Music fills the streets as people sing, dance, make jokes and eat pica pollo. Haitian immigrants, Dominoco-Haitians (term for Haitians that were born in DR but are not fully recognized as Dominican citizens) and Dominicans live in harmony here creating a life rich in food, culture, nature and brotherhood. There’s always so much more to the story than poverty and difficulty. There is joy too. There is love too. I am beyond grateful that I have been welcomed in the hearts of so many members of this bateye. My adventure in the Dominican Republic is slowly coming to an end but this is an experience I’ll always cherish 💛